Kayaking & Canoeing

Paddling the Urban Wilderness

The Confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers

by Rich Macha

The Mohawk River, throughout much of its length, has been tamed by the judicious placement of dams creating a deepwater route that is part of the Erie Canal system. Shortly before ending its course to the Hudson River the Mohawk makes a spectacular 90-foot drop over Cohoes Falls then splits into three branches of rapids going around two major islands — Peebles and Van Schaick — and several other small ones. Peebles Island is now a state park; Van Schaick Island is mostly a residential section of Cohoes.

The five-plus miles of the Hudson River between the Federal Lock and Dam in Troy and Lock 1 to the north with side-trips into the Mohawk’s branches makes for an interesting paddle by canoe or kayak — throw in some wildlife and much history and you have one of the Capital District’s finest paddling destinations.

It is best to launch in Waterford at the south end of First Street where there is a state boat ramp next to Battery Park or across the Hudson at a boat ramp on 123rd Street in Lansingburgh. Before putting in, take a walk along the wharf over to the Waterford Harbor Visitor Center where you can learn some Erie Canal and tugboat history. A pair of fisherman, when told that I was writing an article, informed me, tongue in cheek, that the fishing is poor around here.

A flatwater outing of up to 12 miles is possible — spend an hour or several hours exploring. Starting at Battery Park — the north end of the 156-mile Hudson River Greenway Water Trail which ends at Battery Park in New York City — go west on the North Branch of the Mohawk past the tug Chancellor, which is in the process of being restored. Then paddle under the North Bridge to Peebles Island, a 670-foot double-span steel-truss bridge built in 1913 for the D & H Railroad, which has recently been reopened as a one-lane road bridge allowing for access to the state park from the Waterford side. Lock 2 of the Erie Canal system is seen on the right and the wooded shore of Peebles Island steepens into cliffs on one’s left.

After a half-mile, Mohawk Paper Mill is on the right and the rocky mass of Polrump Island splits the river — you can’t go far to the left of the island before things get too shallow. If you go to the right, one can paddle a bit further before a dam crosses the river. Note that in spring and other times of high water the current can be quite strong here. Turn back around and paddle back to the Hudson River and keep going right around Peebles’ northeast corner where there is a viewing platform and a pavilion. Keep an eye out for beavers, cormorants, great blue herons, geese, mallards and other ducks.

Passing under the South Bridge to Peebles Island (Delaware Avenue) into the Middle Branch a large brick building is seen on the right — this now houses the headquarters of the State Bureau of Historic Sites and Bureau of Historic Preservation Field Services but once was the bleachery for Cluett & Peabody’s shirt manufacturing operations. Van Schaick Island is on your left. The water in late summer and early fall is very clear and zebra mussels and the occasional fish can easily be seen — the leaves of Virginia creeper turn a bright red.

Very little development is seen as one approaches Whirlpool Falls (also known through the years as Little Cohoes, Buttermilk, Little or Horseshoe Falls.) Only a few feet high, the falls are nevertheless impressive both in times of low and high water. Facing the falls, the left (Van Schaick) cliff wall has been cut out by high waters and, in fact, in spring a whirlpool is often witnessed below — paddling near the whirlpool should be left to the experts. The right (Peebles) shale cliff wall rises 60-feet above the river — during low water it is possible to land below the cliff next to the falls. Wild columbine often grows in the crevices.

Peebles Island has quite a history. The site of a Mahican village up to the early 1600s, it became a Dutch settlement late that century. Goosen Gerritsen van Schaick, a brewer, may have grown hops here. During the Revolutionary War, Thaddeus Kosciusko built up breastworks (earthen fortifications) to guard against a possible attack by the British from the north — some of the breastworks can still be seen. There are three miles of trails on the island if you need to stretch your legs.

Return to the Hudson and make a right going downstream alongside Van Schaick Island. The Matton Shipyard, opened in 1916 to take advantage of the canal market and now part of the state park, is soon passed. The South Branch of the Mohawk River is reached about a mile and one-half downstream of the Middle Branch. How far you can paddle up the branch depends a lot on water level and your energy level. In low water things soon become too shallow and in high water there is a strong current to paddle against. Paddling further south on the Hudson past narrow Jan Gowsen Island one sees the Troy Lock and Dam. It is best, though, to turn back upstream. The east shore is heavily developed.

Passing the launch spot, one paddles under the NY Route 4 bridge. HOLLYWOOD-style, the words “WATERFORD” and “NEW YORK” are set into the west bank on either side of the bridge and Canada geese may be seen gathering here. North of the bridge Routes 4 & 32 are close to the west shore. On the east side, woods dominate over light development and small cliffs are passed as the river doglegs right then left. An alternate gravel launch spot is passed at Marion Avenue in Pleasantdale, the historical site of Lansings Ferry.

Shores become wooded and relatively steep a mile before Lock 1. The observant paddler may catch a glimpse of an osprey or a pair of bald eagles; common nighthawk is another protected species found here. Nearing the lock, General Electric’s silicones plant is to the left but is somewhat shielded by trees. Campbell Island and several smaller state-owned islands demand exploration. There is a dock on Campbell and a picnic lunch here would be a great idea. Area woods are comprised of cottonwoods, oaks, maples and the occasional sycamore. Soon passing Thieves Hollow, the Kool Kill and a hidden waterfall, paddle the east shore back to your put-in with a bit of help from the current.

On summer weekends expect a fair amount of motorized traffic on the Hudson. I prefer early mornings and weekday evenings when things are quieter — spring and fall are great times to visit. On a recent fair September Thursday morning I was the only boat out on the water. Stay close to shore to avoid the deepwater channel along which motorboats will generally be traveling. The EPA’s dredging of PCBs in the Hudson River may affect the paddling experience over the next few years but, I believe, Mother Nature always wins out in the long run.

Johnny Miller of Saratoga Springs is an avid outdoorsman who publishes his own Adventure Guide for Saratoga County. He is also a consultant specializing in outdoor event planning.

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