Adirondack Rock Revival:
Climbing Stewart’s Ledge on Buck Mountain

by Jeremy Haas

“Watch me!” I blurted these words down to my belayer, Stuart Linke, as one of my hands fidgeted a piece of rock protection into a small crack while the other hand was clamped down on a hold adorned with leafy lichen. I was near the top of the climb but the difficulties were not over. The crack that I’d been following from the ground had closed up and the wall above was steep, moss-covered and wet. Although my feet were perched on a positive ledge, my handholds were both small and slippery. Balancing with care I unclipped a wire brush from my harness and scrubbed the small edge. A bit of powdered chalk from by chalk bag soaked up the dampness oozing onto my handhold. Time to climb! After a quick check of my protection, which looked solid, I began the traverse across the open face. Pessimistic that good holds would appear, I figured that the climbing would get desperately tough. Stepping high and reaching past my other hand, I had committed myself to finding a way to the top.

My introduction to Stewart’s Ledge of Buck Mountain was within the first couple of months of moving to Glens Falls. Although I was familiar with the climbs of the High Peaks and Poke-O-Moonshine, I hadn’t a clue of what climbing existed around Lake George.

Rock climbing isn’t always conducted on enormous cliffs or remote destinations, these adventures require an entire day and careful planning. A climber, like any outdoor athlete, needs to practice their sport in smaller dosages. Climbing a couple of rope lengths after work or between weekend rains, provides the rock climber with a small adventure, a chance to train and a way to appreciate their backyard.
Stewart’s Ledge is a steep top-roping and bolt-protected cliff, located ten minutes from the shores of Lake George and has rock that is both clean and textured. Bonus: It’s located near the Pilots Knob trailhead for Buck Mountain, 20 minutes from downtown Glens Falls.

A well-marked trail, circling counterclockwise to the top of the cliff, leads the climber past 15 climbs from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty. Although the climbs begin in the trees, the climber is rewarded with lake views once they reach the anchors on top. For the fit climber, climbs such as Dog Pounder (5.10b) and Valium (5.10a) are stepping stones toward the more difficult climbs at Stewart’s Ledge. Although it’s may not be the best cliff for an introduction to the sport, many beginners have made their first climbs outdoor on The Entertainer (5.8) or the cracks on the main face (5.6). Much like planning a midweek bike ride or rendezvous at the kayak hole, Buck Mountain is tailor-made for after work adventures.

Early this spring Jim Lawyer and I began writing a new guidebook to Adirondack rock climbing. The primary job of a guidebook author is to describe the climbing routes and the location on the cliffs where they exist. Most climbers use a guidebook to help plan their adventure. The thrill of climbing isn’t just the exposure or gymnastic movement, but also the exploration that comes with leaving the trailhead, locating the cliff and finding a climb that will inspire one to leave the safety of level ground.

When it comes to details, climbers are very mindful of what part of the cliff they want to try and climb. How hard is the climb? Is it hard at the bottom, the top or the whole way? Is it free of loose rock and has secure protection? Where do I go? How long is it? Is it any good?

For the popular climbs on the well-known Adirondack cliffs, the answers to these questions are easily attained. Somebody probably climbed the route just be for you showed up or a local at the cliff could make a suggestion. However, when the cliffs are obscure and the climbs are dirty Adirondack climbing takes on a different character. The rains wash soil into the cracks that enable plants to root deeply into the cliff. Mosses and lichens cling to coarse rock knobs. A couple of years are all it takes for a cliff to grow in. If there is no climber traffic on a route, it quickly loses it appeal. Unless, of course, you like the adventure of heading up a climb armed with a wire brush and a nut tool and reliving the experience of a first ascent. The questions asked, by the first ascentionist at the base of the cliff are not ones that can be answered by a guidebook. The answers come to the climber as they begin their ascent. What is the path of least resistance? Where are the rests that will encourage me to continue further? Should I be concerned about the moss and wet rock? What if it becomes really tough?

The added adventure for the guidebook author lies in researching and rediscovering routes that hadn’t been climbed in many years. After gathering reports from regional climbers, sketching the cliff and drafting the descriptions, I realized that I hadn’t climbed several routes at Stewart’s Ledge.

Thankfully, I live close to the cliff. This wet spring has been fitting for the boater and frustration for those who require dry conditions for play. A quick glance at the Doppler radar and a peak out the windows convinced me that I had a three-hour weather window, maybe more if the rain tracked north. I would have been happy to have gotten in a single climb before the deluge. The gamble paid off. Not only did it not rain, Stuart and I experienced weather that enhanced the day. The clouds were steel grey and ominous, yet perforated and allowed sunbeams to pass through. After our first climb, toping out on the cliff gave us a beautiful view across Lake George. It was not the hazy, humid weather that typifies Adirondack summers; rather it was air-conditioned and invigorating.

Now on our second climb, I was more concerned with my purchase on the cliff than the light dancing around on the lake. I pulled down hard with my right hand until the hold was next to my shoulder. After pushing off of my left foot I could swing my other foot across the blank wall and stab for a hold. Confident that I wouldn’t fall off for at least two seconds, I let go of my left hand and lurched toward the unassuming hold. My fingers latched, deeply, into a pocket the size of a deck of cards. Whew!

Later that evening on the drive back home, I reflected on our afternoon and how it typifies why climbers climb. It was a small climb and not particularly difficult, but it offered us the sensation universal to all climbers: believe in your ability, commit yourself to the challenge and discover what can be done. A seasons worth of climbs lies ahead and with the added motivation of the guidebook project, the current generation of Adirondack climbers has been inspired to rediscover the forgotten climbs of decades past.

Directions: The Buck Mountain trailhead is located on Pilot Knob Road, 3.3 miles (north) from the intersection with NY Route 9L. Follow the Buck Mountain trail for 200 yards, take the second right (south) following yellow blazes. Take a left at the fork and the Stewart’s Ledge crag on the left is reached within five minutes. Head up through some boulders to the base of Dog Pounder.

“Adirondack Rock” a new rock climbing guidebook by Jeremy Haas and Jim Lawyer is in preparation for publication in 2007. It will feature more than 20 new climbing areas and new routes of the last decade on better-known cliffs. First ascentionists with routes to share can visit www.adirondackrock.com for more information.

That day at Stewart’s Ledge and knowing that many gems have been left for rediscovery is why I look forward to another day on the rock.

Jeremy Haas teaches science at Saratoga Springs High School and moonlights as a climbing and skiing guide for Adirondack Rock and River Guide Service in Keene. Presently he’s enjoying the best part of the teaching year and occasionally comes back to his home in Glens Falls.

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