Rock Climbing

The Unique Allure of
Adirondack Rock Climbing

by Jeff Edwards

Rock climbing used to be an endeavor pursued by fringe dwellers and social outcasts. The few who were foolish enough to wander off the marked trail in search of soaring cracks or scrubby slabs were half-baked explorers, over-confident adrenaline junkies, or lonely misfits. The Adirondacks were a backwater beyond compare with relation to such awesome rock climbing scenes as Yosemite National Park, Eldorado Canyon in Colorado, or New York’s own Shawangunks. Even North Conway, New Hampshire had a significant resident rock climbing underclass in the 1960’s and 1970’s. The Adirondacks remained shrouded in drizzle and blackflies.

Those who did make forays into these unforgiving hills were not necessarily rewarded with satisfying outcomes. Instead, the Adirondack experience featured the ubiquitous precipitation, lichen covered stone, and a fearful distance from civilization. Since then, rock climbing has undergone a global explosion in popularity. Those who haven’t played in the vertical world are clearly in an extreme sports vacuum. Every outdoor recreation destination on this sorrowfully destroyed globe swarms with brightly clad humans. Thankfully, Adirondack rock climbing has remained the same as it ever was.

Most renowned rock climbing areas are noted for a prominent type of climbing or unique geologic features. The parallel cracks of Indian Creek in Utah slice laser-like through Wingate sandstone. The stupendous magnitude of the El Capitan and Half Dome granite in California draws climbers from around the world. The Diamond on Long’s Peak in Colorado offers crack and corner climbing at an altitude of up to 14,000 feet. The 6-million acres in the Adirondack Park feature a little bit of everything, but not too much of anything. On the national level, the Adirondacks remain endlessly forgotten; most have heard of the place, but few have visited to sample the diverse array of rock climbing possibilities.

Adirondack Top-Roping
Novices will find abundant thrills at the small cliffs scattered throughout the Adirondack Park. Whether seeking the undiscovered gems of the southern Adirondacks or visiting the well-traveled crags of the High Peaks region, the potential for quality entertainment is endless. The Adirondack forests are littered with 30-75 foot hunks of rock well suited to top-roping. Some are moss-coated slabs only reachable with compass and topographic map. Others are convenient practice areas visited frequently by camp and church groups. Whatever the case, abundant spruce, cedar, fir, pine and maple make for quick and efficient anchor arrangements. Go ahead and try that at some desert blob in Joshua Tree, California. As is always the case, realize that rock climbing is an exceedingly dangerous sport with numerous hazards that can lead to injury or death. Always seek instruction from a licensed or certified guide before journeying out on your own.

Friction Climbing
Friction climbing has become a lost art in recent years as steep sport climbs, popularized by indoor climbing gyms, have come to dominate the climbing world. This esoteric genre is still pursued in a rather cult-like fashion in the Adirondacks on the 700-foot Chapel Pond Slab and the 500-foot slab at Poke-O-Moonshine. Friction climbing demands precision footwork and the routes on these slabs provide excellent terrain to hone essential technique. Those searching for greater friction climbing challenges can consult Don Mellor’s Climbing in the Adirondacks (Adirondack Mountain Club) for locations of cliffs and specific climbs. In particular, the southern Adirondacks and the wilderness areas of the High Peaks contain a number of quality objectives.

Backcountry Climbing
Nothing sets the Adirondacks apart from other Eastern climbing areas like the incredible volume of backcountry climbs. From the 800-foot gem Wallface to the south slopes of Pharaoh Mountain, the Adirondacks deliver unparalleled climbing in remote locales. Wallface is the real deal with long moderate routes like The Diagonal (Class 5.8) and super challenging lines like Pleasure Victim (5.11). Big wall climbers can polish their skills on Mental Blocks (5.7 A2) in preparation for forays in the grander ranges of the world. Were Wallface located anywhere but the Adirondacks, it would be the topic of climber discussions at every campfire. Nonetheless, Wallface still maintains an impenetrable aura about it with colossal failures more common than successful ascents.

Even more unique are the mountain top finishes of several routes in the High Peaks. Gothics Mountain and Big Slide Mountain each possesses several routes that terminate close to the summit. Nothing beats great climbing and the summit of a 46’er in one trip. The High Peaks region contains well-documented routes as well as distant cliffs awaiting their first human visitors. True adventure, however, exists in the southern and northwestern reaches of the Adirondack Park where innumerable vertical expanses lie waiting for discovery. Bear in mind that backcountry climbing demands total self-sufficiency. Approach hikes are long and the consequences of a mishap are severe.

Lakeside Climbing
Most mountain regions possess at least some legitimate rock climbing opportunities. Few such regions can boast about abundant freshwater recreational opportunities as well. Imagine paddling to a spectacular cliff accessible only by water. Such is the case with Lake George’s 500-foot Rogers Rock and Lower Saranac Lake’s Bluff Island. Rogers Rock requires a 30-minute canoe or kayak journey. Climbers are rewarded with some of the best low-angled face climbing anywhere in the country. Each time I’ve ascended Rogers Rock, my feet have swollen painfully in the heat. No worries; the post-climb swim always manages to reduce the suffering. Buff Island is a novelty in comparison with only 30-60 feet of true technical climbing. The island is, however, a tremendous destination with onsite picnicking and nearby camping.

More Forgotten Destinations
The Adirondacks will always be off the map in terms of visitation from casual outsiders. Those who return for more than just the occasional rock climbing foray have learned to suffer and endure. The rain…the bugs…the seemingly endless carpet of trees…they all conspire to keep the Adirondacks out of the rock climbing mainstream. Those who persevere are rewarded with some of the most unique recreational opportunities anywhere in the continental United States. The Adirondacks are full of cliffs to call your own. The only requirement for fulfillment is a willingness to explore.

Jeff Edwards (edwardsj@northwoodschool.com) teaches English and environmental science at Northwood School in Lake Placid. He also guides rock and ice climbing for Adirondack Rock and River Guide Service in Keene.

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