Still a "Great Lake"

By Richard MacDonald

Although its life as a Great Lake may have been short-lived, Lake Champlain certainly is still a great lake. The rich diversity of both natural and human landscapes make Lake Champlain a wondrous place to see by kayak.

Whether referring to it as kayaking, kayak touring, or sea kayaking, it is all about sliding polyethylene on water ® or wood or canvas or some composite material. Perhaps due to its origins with the native peoples of the Arctic north, most of us tend to think of it as sea kayaking. Within the past ten years, the popularity of kayaking has grown tremendously. Not long ago, you could spend a day paddling and not see another kayak. Today, the reverse is true.¾

The lake has served as a major thoroughfare since well before French explorer Samuel de Champlain discovered his namesake in 1609. Through the generations, the lake has undergone a progression from key military route during the colonial era to vital economic link during the height of logging and mining during the nineteenth- and into the early twentieth century to the significant recreational destination of today.¾

The 132-mile-long Lake Champlain serves as the border between New York and Vermont and extends north into Quebec. To most people, the lake is the "Broad Lake" bounded by Burlington on the east, Port Kent on the west, Split Rock Point to the south and Grand Isle to the north, but the lake is so much more.¾

To the north, Malletts and Missisquoi Bays, the Inland Sea, and the New York waters to the east all flow to the Richelieu River. Here the lake is narrower than the Broad Lake but affords plenty of open water making for adventurous paddling. Explore Fort Montgomery, a.k.a. Fort Blunder, just north of Rouses Point. Launch on the north side of the causeway that spans New York and Vermont and paddle the short distance to the only fort on the lake that never saw battle. The Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge is a wildlife haven. Its shallows and wetlands and tributaries make for a wide variety of paddling conditions and is mostly protected from the wind.

South, the lake is narrow, more riverine, flowing through gentle hills and abundant wetlands from Whitehall to the Crown Point peninsula. For a put-in, try the State ramp next to the Ticonderoga ferry. Paddle in the shadow of Robert Rogers and his Rangers south around the Ticonderoga light and Fort Ticonderoga. The sentinels of Mount Defiance loom over the fort on the New York side and Mount Independence from Vermont. Paddle up the La Chute River to the base of the waterfowl that drains Lake George into Lake Champlain, but follow your map closely or you might end up in a false bay. The emergent wetlands at the mouth of the La Chute are rich with Great Blue Heron, Osprey, Red-winged Blackbird, Swamp Sparrow, and Marsh Wren. And throughout the clear, shallow waters of this wetland, keep one wary eye cocked down for Long-nosed Gar: their powerful tail flips make a big splash and can eventually leave even the strong-of-heart nervous.¾

Places to park and launch your kayak become few and far between south of Ticonderoga until you reach South Bay, where there is a State ramp on Route 22. From this ramp, you can paddle northwest or southeast on the river-like south lake. Here it is so narrow that a strong arm could probably skip a rock across. Or for a different experience, paddle south into South Bay.¾ This bay is virtually a lake unto itself. With a length of about four miles and a width approaching half a mile, the predominating southwest winds often kick up a mean chop in these shallow waters. The steep terrain has restricted development, leaving a wild feel, with the twin peaks of cedar-covered Saddles bounding the south and talus cliffs of The Diameter marking the north. Eastern Timber Rattlesnakes den in the South Bay vicinity; Peregrine Falcons nest on The Diameter; and if you get close enough to the talus field at its base, look for skinks, small lizards basking on sun-warmed rocks.

Of course, to feel like you have really experienced Lake Champlain, paddle the Broad Lake. The opportunities for trips are numerous. One of the more popular trips launches from the State ramp in Peru (Peru Dock). Paddle out around Valcour Island, which is not quite a mile from shore. Plan on making a day of it as the entire island is owned by New York State and has a network of trails and campsites. The old lighthouse on the west side is worth a visit and is occasionally open to the public on summer weekends. Valcour Island is in American history books as one of the decisive battles of the Revolutionary War. We lost the battle but it has been argued that thanks to Benedict Arnoldês leadership, our troops gained vital time that eventually led to victory.

What may be the most scenic trip on the lake is between Westport and Essex. In Westport, the newly renovated State launch provides access. As you paddle north, the rocky shoreline is reminiscent of the Maine coast ® it is like ocean kayaking without the salt spray.¾ Snake Den Harbor is the site of an old iron mine from the last century and gains its name from a proliferation of snakes. A little further north brings the Palisades, sheer cliffs rising 100 feet above the lake and dropping to more than 100 feet in depth. Peregrine Falcons, Turkey Vultures, and Common Ravens all nest on the cliffs and talus slopes in the area. Beggs Memorial Park in Essex offers a small sheltered sand beach, ideal for taking out in any wind.

Most outfitters and marinas around the Lake Champlain basin will have suitable maps or charts. In New York, State boat launches are well spaced, making for convenient day-trips. A network of State and Fish & Wildlife Service ramps provide access in Vermont. One difference that slowly becomes apparent between paddling in New York in Vermont is public land. A significant portion of the New York shoreline, especially that within the Adirondack Park, is in public ownership. This directly translates into many more opportunities to get out of your kayak to stretch your legs or take a sunny afternoon nap.

When paddling anywhere, remember that you are responsible for yourself. Carry a spare paddle. Have self-rescue gear such as a paddle float and bilge pump ... and know how to use them. A signaling device is crucial and required. An air-horn will be heard by even the noisiest of motorized watercraft, but you should always have an emergency whistle attached to your life jacket. Leave a trip plan with a responsible friend or family member. And stick to your trip plan!

While you are out there, keep your eyes peeled. You might just see Champy and you too could get your name on the billboard in Port Henry.

Richard MacDonald is a naturalist and paddler who has been exploring the Adirondack lakes for 18 years. He lives and works in Keene Valley.