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Adirondack
Kayaking:
A Haven for Paddlers
By Rich MacDonald
With thousands of ponded waters greater than half an acre, the Adirondacks represent a haven for paddlers. Paddlers in touring, or sea, kayaks tend to favor larger waters requiring minimal portaging. Of the myriad routes to explore, it can be difficult to narrow the choices; however, a few of particular note are Lake Placid, Lows Lake, and Long Lake.
Lake Placid is a goodly-sized lake. Whether poking around the various bays or looking for a vigorous workout, this is a wonderful lake; after an early morning paddle, there will be no doubt where its name originates. For a kayaker, there is only one practical access point: the State boat launch north of the village of Lake Placid (follow Mirror Lake Drive about 1/2 mile north of Main Street and look for the traditional brown sign with yellow letters).
With a little imagination, Lake Placid can be seen as a three-mile-long figure eight. The centers of the "8" are Buck and Moose Islands, with little Hawk Island thrown in at the north end as a bonus. On most maps, the lake is divided in half: East Lake and West Lake. From the boat launch, paddle northeast up the East Lake to Whiteface Landing—during that stretch, Whiteface Mountain beckons, a stark sentinel on the horizon. Whiteface Landing is a wonderful place to stretch your legs and, if the water is warm enough, go for a swim. The ubiquitous outhouse is there, ready to satisfy Nature's call and trail maps will lead you to campsites within walking distance.
Lake Placid is largely surrounded by northern hardwood forest and makes for a spectacular fall paddle. The last week in September is generally peak foliage. In September and October visit www.empire.state.ny.us/tourism/foliage/ for the fall foliage report. Start at sunrise (just before 7:00) and paddle through the wispy vapors rising off the lake, indicating water warmer than the air. As the sun burns off the fog, the low-angle morning light brilliantly illuminates the reds and oranges of the maple and the yellows of the birch and beech, all in seemingly infinite shades.
For the return trip, paddle southwest down the West Lake. After Labor Day, motorized traffic on the lake is virtually nonexistent. Between the spectacular fall foliage and the magnificent camps sprinkled along the shoreline, there will be plenty to see. Be sure to keep an eye and ear peeled skyward for the resident Osprey.
Arguably, Lows Lake, west of Tupper Lake, is as beautiful as Adirondack lakes come. From the village of Tupper Lake, take route 30 south about seven miles to route 421, then west on 421 about six miles to the Lows Lake/Bog River Flow access, marked by the oh-so-familiar yellow-lettered signs.
Beginning at Bog River Flow and paddling west, the tea-brown water of this river gives a feel for Adirondack primeval. Though much of this area lacks the color traditionally associated with fall, the surrounding Hemlock/Tamarack forest has a splendor all its own. Paddle later in the fall to enjoy the breath-taking brilliance of Tamarack (a deciduous conifer) turning brilliant gold—not much on this green planet compares to the fall Tamarack, covered in dew, illuminated by the early-morning sun.
A short carry, on a well-worn path around the Lows Lake dam, leads to many more miles of watery Nirvana. Most of the Bog River Flow and Lows Lake is New York State Forest Preserve offering numerous opportunities for picnicking or camping. Due to the length of Lows Lake, it makes for a wonderful overnight, but be sure to only camp at designated sites, or to be at least 150 feet from the lakeshore or any streams or rivers. If this is to be a day-trip, be aware of time: it is easy to get caught up in the beauty of this wilderness, so leave plenty of time to retrace your paddle-strokes.
Viewed from space, the Adirondacks appear a jumble of anorthositic rock. Closer inspection shows that the north-northeast trend of Lake Placid is not an anomaly. Long Lake, south of Tupper Lake on Route 30, has a similar orientation. The village of Long Lake sits on the shores of its namesake lake a third of the way up. There are two ways to paddle Long Lake, either out-and-back or as a through-paddle coupled with a carry around Raquette Falls and a nice downstream journey to any number of interesting take-outs, but the carry is a long one and not necessarily well-suited for kayaks.
Long Lake is another case of its name being obvious. It is long and narrow. Which also means it can be something of a wind tunnel. This is not to discourage paddlers, for Long Lake is a beautiful paddle, but be forewarned. A bit of preplanning should include getting a good weather forecast. If the winds are coming strongly out of the southwest, be cognizant of the fact that a significant headwind will slow the return trip.
Paddling north of Long Lake village, several High Peaks are visible, including Santanoni to the east and Seward to the northeast. The mountains are just far enough away that they do not crowd, but are close enough to see just how diverse the fall color palate is. Something about this lake seems to make the miles quickly roll by and before long the north end of the lake is near. There are numerous campsites at this end of the lake, all of which make for excellent picnicking.
After lunch, take a little time to explore the Raquette River. All of the oxbows and meanders, the rich floodplain vegetation, and the clear, shallow water make for some interesting natural history. Imagine what it must have been like to be an early explorer to the Adirondacks, paddling uncharted rivers, following swift river currents around the next bend, without any idea what may lay just ahead.
Even though all of the waters of the Adirondacks must certainly have felt the many a paddle dipped through its surface, it is ever possible to enjoy the serenity that is unique to the aqueous environment. Stare at a topographic map for a while, see if you can follow the flow of water, and discover some of your own routes.
Rich MacDonald is a naturalist and paddler who has been exploring the
Adirondack lakes for 18 years. He lives and works in Keene Valley and
can regularly be found on Adirondack waters, guiding trips or researching
stories.
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