ROCK CLIMBING

Early Season Top-Roping in the Adirondacks

by Jeff Edwards

Each of my more than 20 rock climbing seasons in the Adirondacks starts in basically the same way. Spring and early summer bring tentative forays onto familiar rock in an effort to reconnect with the pleasures of vertical movement. It's necessary to temper the hyper-kinetic enthusiasm borne from winter confinement with some control and sanity before launching into that sparsely protected horror show lead I've been fantasizing about for months. In other words, I need to take it slow and ease back into the vertical world with a number of top-rope outings.

Top-roping is the safest and most efficient means by which to learn or reacquire the nuances of the rock dance. The Adirondacks are blessed with stout cedar, spruce, and balsam fir at the top of most crags and nothing instills climbing confidence more than a rope from above anchored to a nice collection of forest giants.

In Keene Valley, King Philips Spring Wall is the most logical starting point because its wide expanses and low angle teach and reinforce solid footwork. The Adirondacks feature little overhanging terrain so the thuggery learned by indoor jug hauling across horizontal ceilings is virtually useless. The foundation for successful Adirondack rock climbing technique comes from repetitive step-ups. Edging and smearing, with hands available for balance and pushing rather than pulling, are the keys to mobility.

No site is better suited to refreshing these climbing movements than King Phillips Spring Wall. Long static lines or lengthy strands of webbing are necessary to establish the anchors here, because the anchor trees are located some distance back from the edge of the cliff. A 60-meter rope also provides a greater margin of security here over the standard 50-meter rope because the cliff is at least 80 feet high. With a convenient location just off Exit 30 of I-87 ("the Northway") and a hot dog stand in the parking lot, it's hard to go wrong unless the bugs get nasty.

Near Whiteface, Notch Mountain Slabs, high above the West Branch of the Ausable River, is the next destination for the early season top-roping progression. With a short, stout hike from NY Route 86 up to a scenic knob off the Copperas Pond trail in Wilmington Notch, this mini-adventure provides the right kind of early season invigoration. The coarse rock here again emphasizes the importance of proper footwork, but the variations are abundant enough to make for a full body experience. The anchor set-ups are easily accessed and the views of Moss Cliff with the whitewater of the Ausable River below are unparalleled. Notch Mountain is probably not worthy of entire day of climbing, but it's the perfect afternoon escape.

Once I feel solid on my feet, it's off to Owls Head Mountain for a revisit with crack climbing technique. Owls Head, located about a mile below the Cascade Lakes on NY Route 73, offers nearly a dozen finger and hand cracks of moderate difficulty. Rigging top-rope anchors here requires a little ingenuity in the form of long anchor lines to the distant cliff top trees or nuts and cams in the cracks near the cliff's edge. The brief, rugged hike to this tiny mountaintop cliff is just enough to legitimize a relaxed climbing pace. The cracks demand concise form, but they never become difficult enough to create any muscular meltdown. Instead, Owls Head seems the perfect place to simply soak up the views of Hurricane Mountain, Cascade Mountain, and the more distant peaks of the High Peaks while wistfully dreaming of more demanding challenges to come.

Once I've gotten a little Owls Head crack climbing mileage, the Jewels and Gems crag beckons with a handful of moderate top-rope routes that demand the full repertoire of climbing skills. This handy cliff is located on the east side of NY Route 73 just across from Chapel Pond Slab. The beauty of this destination lies in its pedestrian 100-yard approach. The routes here feature face moves, sections of jamming, and the occasional step beyond an overhang for a compactly diverse experience. Jewels and Gems might have its limits in terms of climbing volume, but it serves the vital purpose of requiring a blend of climbing movements. Its quaintness more than makes up for its lack of stature. Setting the top-ropes at Jewels and Gems requires a bit more than the normal level of caution because the anchor points are in somewhat exposed locations, so use care.

Once I've put in my time at King Phillips Spring Wall, Notch Mountain Slabs, Owls Head, and Jewel and Gems, it's time to enter the savage arena of the Beer Walls, off Route 73 in Keene Valley. Early summer brings out the climbing clubs, camp groups, and hardcore weekend warriors who all seem to congregate at the attractive top-rope routes in the Beer Walls. Most are moderate in difficulty and are relatively easy to set up with the standard static line or webbing approach.

I'm often tempted to be a real cynic about the weekend crowds, trail erosion, and gregarious scene, but I've learned to embrace the top-roping tribe. The routes are great and it becomes fun to argue with others about the routinely under graded Adirondack classics. The Beer Walls provide such a vast number of possibilities that they can keep almost anybody happy. Besides, I wouldn't have gone there unless I was seeking a little camaraderie and commiseration. The roving bands of critics will certainly note any sloppiness remaining with my technique.

Once I've completed my early season top-roping progression, I've laid the foundation for the summer and fall leads I covet. Endless repetitions on a top-rope provide climbers with the confidence necessary to meet the psychological demands of lead climbing. Top-roping hones technique, builds endurance, and generates good fun. It is relatively safe when proper equipment and skill is employed, but any kind of rock climbing is fraught with objective dangers and potential for human error. Seek proper instruction from a guide before embarking upon a top-rope journey of your own.

Don Mellor's Climbing in the Adirondacks published by the Adirondack Mountain Club gives detailed directions to cliff locations as well as route descriptions. The Guide to Adirondack Trails: High Peaks Region also published by the Adirondack Mountain Club is a handy reference for navigating to some of the cliffs. Rock Climbing: A Trailside Guide published by W.W. Norton is a nice introduction to rock climbing techniques and has a number of sections applicable to top-rope set-ups in the Adirondacks.

Acquire experience, be safe, and have fun.

Jeff Edwards (edwardsj@northwoodschool.com) teaches English and environmental science at Northwood School in Lake Placid. He also guides rock and ice climbing for Adirondack Rock and River Guide Service in Keene.

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