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FLY FISHING
West Branch Ausable River: Trout and Salmon in Plenty
By Kevin Henebry
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The Adirondack Mountains have a myriad of fly-fishing opportunities, but perhaps the greatest concentration of trout and salmon waters are in the northeastern Adirondacks. The best known of these exceptional waters is the West Branch of the Ausable, and it is a well-deserved reputation.
The West Branch flows from the flanks of the High Peaks area, past the Olympic village of Lake Placid, through Wilmington and Whiteface Mountain, and on into Au Sable Forks where it joins the East Branch to form the main Ausable River.
Throughout its length, the West Branch is populated with wild brook and brown trout. You'll also find holdover trout that have been in the river for one to four years and fish that were stocked this year. This wide variety of available fish allows for a challenging outing for fly fishers of all skill levels.
The Upper
Section
The water types in the Ausable also hold a wide variety of choices for
the visiting fly angler. From Route 73 near the Olympic ski jumps, upstream
toward its source, the West Branch is a classic mountain stream. This
section holds many wild fish and offers some of the easiest wading on
the entire river. An average fish in this section is about 10 inches,
with a few 12 inches or larger to be found.
Access is limited though with the best access points being at the bridge on Route 73 by the ski jumps, and at the bridge on Adirondack Loj Road. Some of this upper section runs over private lands, so watch for signs and ask permission before crossing.
It is fun to fish this section in the summer when the cool waters can make wet wading delightful. Use a small 7-_ to 8-foot rod that carries a 3-5-weight line and a 7-_ foot leader tapered to 5X. While many flies will do the trick, your fly box should have Yellow Stimulators size 12 & 14, Olive or Tan Caddis size 14 & 16, Terrestrials (Ants, Beetles, Hoppers) in sizes 10-6, and some basic nymphs such as Beaded Muskie in size 10, Hare's Ear size 10 & 12, and Stoneflies size 10.
The Middle
Section
Once the West Branch crosses under Route 73, at the base of the ski jumps,
it starts to take on the characteristics of a bigger river. It's not the
mountain stream that you just left behind. The West Branch starts to pick
up more tributaries, the largest of which is the Chubb River that, despite
its name, is quite a good trout fishery in its own right.
The first portion of the middle section is the easiest stretch to wade and fish. A mostly gravel bottom with few stretches of pocketwater allows for reasonably good footing and the deep outside bends and carved pools hold nice fish.
Once the West Branch flows over Monument Falls there is a major change in water type. You now get into the extensive stretches of pocketwater for which the Ausable is famous. This pocket water is turbulent, boulder strewn water that holds plenty of fish and many of them can measure up to 20 inches or more. There is an art to successfully fishing pocketwater but to learn this art, you must be properly equipped. The necessities include felt-soled, chest-high waders, a sturdy wading staff, and a rod of 8-_ to 9-feet in length.
This pocketwater, with a few calmer pools interspersed, continues all the way down to Lake Everest, the small impoundment in the town of Wilmington. Without a boat the fly fishing on Lake Everest is limited, but the rest of this middle section has excellent access, and also includes the 5.2-mile long no-kill water. It is to this no-kill area that most visiting anglers go. Not only is it well populated with fish, but also some of the largest fish in the river reside there.
While "matching the hatch" is usually the best approach to catching these wily trout, some general patterns will also catch their share of fish. A well-stocked fly box will include such general flies as the Ausable Wulff size 8-12, Elk Hair Caddis size 12-14, Royal Wulff size 8-12, large Stimulators size 6-12, Beaded Muskie size 8-10, Stonefly Nymphs size 4-10, and other large bushy dry flies, or bead head nymphs.
The Lower
Section
Starting at the dam in Wilmington and extending all the way to its junction
with the East Branch is the lower section of the West Branch. This section
is virtually all pocketwater with very few areas of slower current. While
there are several points of public access, this is also the section of
river with the greatest amount of private and posted land.
The first mile and a half below the dam is public access fishing, but then you run into about 5 miles of private water. Below this stretch, there is public access with small spots of private land. Almost all of this publicly accessible water is pocketwater, which holds many wild fish, and some of the biggest fish in the river.
The flies you carry on the middle section of the West Branch will also do well here. Throughout the season, large nymphs fished in the pocketwater are consistent producers. During June through September, large bushy dry flies fished to pockets can bring some aggressive, splashy strikes that thrill even the most experienced angler. These are smart old fish that know how to break you off. They will test your fish-fighting skills.
Be Prepared
The equipment you have with you will not only determine your level of
success, but also your level of enjoyment. Returning to your car on a
cool Adirondack night after having fallen in puts quite a damper on a
good day.
Rods of 8-_ to 9-feet long built to handle 4-6-weight lines are recommended. A floating fly line is by far your best choice. Leave the sinking or sink tip lines at home. Top this off with a 7-_ to 9-foot leader and you just need to add your favorite fly.
Leader tippets can range from 2X to 4X for your nymph and streamer work; 4X to 6X is good for most of your dry fly and emerger work. Use the strongest tippet you can without spooking fish. These are healthy fish in a strong current. You don't want to miss the fish of a lifetime because of a wimpy tippet.
For safety's sake, you need to be wearing felt-soled, chest-high waders. Rubber soles are highly dangerous, and studded felts are, too. There are very few flat spots on the bottom of this river. You are always wading over smooth, rounded, algae-covered rocks. The straight felts give you your best traction.
Also, I never enter this river without having a wading staff with me. The extra margin of safety this offers is invaluable. One misstep in a strong current, and your hat is floating down river while you head back to the car soaking wet. The other important safety item is polarized sunglasses. These cut through the glare and allow you to see the bottom and the fish much better. Then you can plan your next step instead of guessing.
If you fish the West Branch properly equipped and with your favorite flies, you are in for a wonderful Adirondack experience. Once you try it, you're hooked for life.
Kevin Henebry has been fishing the Adirondack streams, rivers and ponds
for over 30 years. He walked away from a successful career in the biotech
field to become owner-operator of The Ausable River Sport Shop in Wilmington.
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