Teddy's Trail: Indian Lake, Long Lake, Blue Mountain Lake, and Newcomb

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BICYCLING

Teddy's Trail: Indian Lake, Long Lake, Blue Mountain Lake, and Newcomb

By Bill McKibben, Sue Halpern, Mitchell Hay, Barbara Lemmel

This classic bicycle tour in the central Adirondacks covers a distance of 79.9 miles over rolling to hilly terrain, with a couple of very memorable climbs and descents that can be difficult, but not impossible for the average rider. The ride can be ridden in one long, hard day or broken up into two or three moderate days with more time to browse, hike, canoe, and explore the towns along the way.

The ride start and finish is in the village of North Creek, just east of state Route 28, near Gore Mountain. Begin riding west at the North Creek Deli and Marketplace, with the deli on your right. As you move out of town, note the Hudson River on your right, and the sawmill, which is still in operation along the river.

At 0.6-mile turn right onto state Route 28. A generous shoulder along much of this ride diminishes the effects of the traffic along the route. For the next 5 miles, you will ride within view of the Hudson River. The river's character varies with the seasons; in the spring and early summer, the water is high and fast, and as the summer and fall progresses the water level falls so that in places the rocks can be seen all the way across the water.

At 2.5 miles watch the railroad tracks, which cross Route 28 here at quite an angle. These tracks are a continuation of the railroad that extended from New York City to North Creek; they travel on to the old iron ore and titanium mine at Tahawus. To your right is a parking area, one of several along this stretch of the route.

At 4.2 miles enter the town of North River. At 4.4 Whitewater Challengers, on the left, is one of the many local whitewater rafting companies that lead tours on the Hudson and nearby rivers. At 4.5 miles Barton Mines Road is on the left. This road leads to the still-operating garnet mine of the area. Shaw's General Store, located at the intersection, carries basic foods, fishing gear, and maps of the area. Jasco Materials, across from Shaw's, has a large collection of rocks, minerals, and fossils, and specializes in native garnet jewelry.

At 5.1 miles note the parking area on the right, which spans Thirteenth Brook as it joins the Hudson River. This is an excellent place to scramble along the rocks or watch the fly-fisherfolk seeking trout in the Hudson's chilly waters. The road to your left leads uphill along Thirteenth Brook to the rest of the hamlet of North River, to Thirteenth Lake, and finally up a dirt road to Garnet Hill Lodge, a former Adirondack Great Camp that is now a four-season resort with excellent cross-country skiing and a terrific restaurant. At 5.5 miles the railroad tracks again cross Route 28 at a steep angle. The tracks continue to follow the Hudson River north, as the road pulls away to the west, toward Indian Lake.

At 5.8 miles you will begin climbing a series of hills as you leave the Hudson. None of these climbs is particularly steep, though this first is nearly 2 miles long. As you climb, New York State "Bike Route" signs will cheer you along to the top, assuring you that other bikers have come this way and survived. At 7.4 miles you reach the top of the first hill. At 8.4 miles note the giant chairs on your right, the advertising for Rustic Furniture, which is made here.

At 8.8 miles begin the last rise on this series of hills. At 9.5 miles this is the top of the climb from North River. Now that you're at the top of the ridge, you'll find bogs, meandering streams, and beaver dams along both sides of the road. The woods contain more pine, and are delightfully cool on summer days. The road will continue to be rolling, with smaller hills as you journey west. At 13.9 miles note the view to the left of the striking peaks of the Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area, most notably Bullhead Mountain.

At 14.2 miles begin a steep 0.5-mile descent as you pass the sign for Indian Lake. At 16.0 miles cross Lake Abenakee, this is the northernmost body of water connected to Indian Lake, which extends some 12 miles to the south-southwest. The town of Indian Lake claims status as the "Whitewater Capital of the Adirondacks," with good reason. Daily throughout the spring, summer, and fall, the Lake Abenakee dam is opened on its northern end and the water flows into the Indian River. Whitewater rafters, kayakers, and canoers ride the crest of the flow down the Indian and into the Hudson River, traveling as far south as the town of North River. During the spring runoff, when water levels in the Hudson often exceed 10 feet, the whitewater is fantastic.

To your left, a parking area on Lake Abenakee provides a good place to stop and enjoy the view. As you leave the lake, you will begin climbing a series of short but steep hills into the hamlet of Indian Lake.

At 16.9 miles Lake Adirondack lies on your right, with Byron Park just on the other side of the bridge. At 17.4 miles the junction of Route 28 and 30, continue straight. A grocery store is on your right. For a worthwhile lunch, stop at Angelina's Pizza on your left, which offers some of the best pizza in the area. The pollo, a pizza with chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, and pesto, is a house specialty.

At 19.2 miles as you leave the hamlet of Indian Lake, you cross Cedar River, which flows north from the Moose River Wilderness. The broad shoulder that has graces Route 28 narrows somewhat, but is still quite adequate for riding well out of the way of traffic. You will pass several trailheads, marking the trails to local lakes and ponds. The road rolls uphill and down for the next several miles.

At 24.0 miles enter the town of Blue Mountain Lake; the sign is on the left. At 25.8 miles the access road to the Lake Durant Public Campground and Day-Use Area is to the left. This is a fine, state-run campground on the shore of Lake Durant, which makes an excellent place to stay if you wish to do this route in 3 days. At 26.2 miles the Northville-Placid Trail crosses Route 28. This wilderness hiking trail covers 133 miles from Northville, on the northern shore of the Sacandaga Lake, to the High Peaks region and Lake Placid. You will cross the trail again between Long Lake and Newcomb.

At 27.8 miles enter the hamlet of Blue Mountain Lake, Route 30 and 28 divide; turn right to follow Route 30 north (which is also Route 28N at this point, which should not be confused with Route 28). The Blue Mountain Lake Service Center, on your left at the intersection, carries basic supplies. Potter's Restaurant, directly across Route 30, serves good breakfast, lunch, or dinner in an Adirondack setting.

If you wish to explore the "downtown" of Blue Mountain Lake, turn left onto Route 28 and ride 0.5-mile into town. The public beach offers a cooling dip as well as a nice view of Blue Mountain Lake with Blue Mountain towering to the north. The Adirondack Lakes Center for the Arts, on the left as you ride through town, contains exhibitions of traditional Adirondack crafts, contemporary art, and a small gift shop. ALCA offers weekday and weekend courses for children and adults in dance, local crafts, photography, and Adirondack storytelling.

At 29.0 miles back on Route 30, Blue Mountain Designs, on the right, sells a wide selection of products by traditional and modern artists. At this point you will begin to climb the steepest hill of the route, a 1-mile ascent over the shoulder of Blue Mountain. At 29.8 miles is the Adirondack Museum, described by the New York Times as "the best museum of its kind in the world." Overlooking Blue Mountain Lake, the museum offers an unparalleled glimpse into the world of the Adirondacks. Films, paintings, photos, wooden Adirondack guideboats, rustic furniture, and a railroad car each tell its piece of Adirondack history. The museum is definitely worth several hours of browsing time, and you will come away with a richer understanding of the Adirondack Park and its inhabitants. Or, if nothing else, pause in the parking lot to catch your breath, admire the view, and gather your strength for the last 0.25-mile uphill.

At 30.1 miles at the top of the hill, the 2-mile trail to the top of Blue Mountain begins to the right of the road. A lookout tower at the top of the mountain offers magnificent views of the Adirondacks in all directions. As you come over the crest of the hill, a delightful, long descent awaits you; the road continues to roll between here and Long Lake, but the hills are much more gentle.

At 36.1 miles enter the town of Long Lake and note the mama bear and cub on the town sign. You will just begin to see the lake to the left, and motels and cottages cluster along the road together with private homes. Long Lake is well named: It is nearly 12 miles long, and only a mile wide at its broadest point.

At 39.4 miles as you come into the hamlet of Long Lake, Route 30 and 28N split. Follow Route 28N to the right to continue on the bike tour toward Newcomb. This part of Route 28N is designated the Roosevelt-Marcy Highway to commemorate Teddy Roosevelt's hurried trip from the High Peaks, north of Newcomb, to North Creek after President McKinley's assassination. Hoss's Country Corner, on the corner of Route 30 and 28N, is a modern version of the traditional general store, with camping supplies, gourmet jams and jellies, books, maps, and food.

If you wish to explore Long Lake, the rest of the town lies along Route 30 to the left. Following the road through town, you will come to Northern Borne Supermarket, another general store stocking food and supplies, which caters to a more local clientele. The handsome old Adirondack Hotel rises to your left. At the town beach, you can hire a seaplane for a ride over the mountains or catch a bite to eat at the Island Snackbar.

If you are planning to split this route into two even sections, or if you wish to ride it in 3 days, you will probably want to stay in or near Long Lake, which is the halfway point of the tour (although most of the uphill riding is over). Lake Eaton Campground, 2 miles west on Route 30, offers fine camping at a state-run facility. For more luxurious lodging, try the Mountain View Farm of Long Lake, a bed & breakfast at the intersection of Walker Road and Adams Park Drive, which features spun wool from sheep raised on the farm.

At 40.1 miles continuing east on Route 28N, note the beaver dam to the right of the road. The next 0.25-mile offers views of Mt. Sabattis and Burnt Mountain. At 40.9 miles the Northville-Placid Trail crosses Route 28N on its way north. As you continue on Route 28N to Newcomb, you get a feel for the wilderness of the Adirondack park – there are few houses or other sign of human habitation for the next 10 miles. Only the occasional stream or pond breaks the presence of the woods on either side of the highway. It is not unusual to see deer along the highway for the next 30 miles.

At 52.1 miles note on your left the sign for the visitors interpretive center, just north of Route 28N. Here you will find displays describing the natural history of the area, as well as weekend classes in local crafts, from fly-fishing to taxidermy. At 52.4 miles enter the town of Newcomb. "Heart of the Adirondacks," the sign into town proclaims, and indeed, Newcomb is the town closest to the geographic center of the Adirondack Park.

At 53.2 miles note to the left the sign to Santanoni Preserve. This former Great Camp hosted such dignitaries as Theodore Roosevelt in its heyday. Santanoni's 12,000 acres have since been acquired by the state of New York, and the buildings and land are a destination for hikers, mountain bikers, and cross-country skiers.

At 53.7 miles Northwoods General Store and Luncheonette, on the right, is a good place to stop for refreshments and a bathroom. Newcomb would surely win if an award were given for "town most scattered along a single road." Homes and small businesses span about 3 miles of Route 28N, most of them right along the highway. One gets the impression that the wilderness, not wanting to be disturbed by human habitation, has pushed the buildings right up against the road.

At 54.9 miles as you cross the Hudson River, you are only a few miles from its source. Here the river appears serene and peaceful, with boggy banks; just a short distance downstream, however, it enters the Hudson River Gorge, a favorite haunt of whitewater enthusiasts. The Hudson will descend some 1,600 feet from this point to the Atlantic Ocean, near New York City.

The Hudson was an important route for timber drivers in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The first logs were sent down the Schroon River, which flows into the Hudson at Warrensburg, to the city of Glens Falls in 1813. Because of the remoteness of the Newcomb forests, logs felled near this area could take as long as 2 years to reach Glens Falls; they were then sent farther south to build scaffolding in New York City. By the 1950s, the demand for fresher wood by the papermaking industry, as well as a dearth of experienced log drivers, brought the log drives on the Hudson to an end.

At 55.3 miles the access road for the Lake Harris Campground and Day-Use Area is on the left. At 56.5 miles, stop here at the Newcomb Picnic Area to admire the view of the High Peaks to the north. Here you can see Mount Marcy, the tallest mountain in New York State; a sign at the picnic area identifies the peaks visible from this point. BBQ grills, picnic tables, and clean public washrooms make this an excellent place to stop for lunch.

To the right of the parking area, a sign directs you to the Hudson River Information Center, 0.6-mile downhill on a paved road. The center contains a history of the logging days, a spectacular view of Mount Marcy across the infant Hudson River, and maps of the area. Across Route 28N, just behind St. Barbara's Episcopal Church, is the Winebrook Market, should you need lunch supplies.

At 58.4 miles to the right is Tahawus, an old iron mine and forge. A 50-foot section of the stone blast furnace still remains as solid witness to the time, 150 years ago, when Tahawus was a working forge. At first, the blast furnace removed impurities from the iron so that it could be shipped by oxcart and sled to Lake Champlain. Later, the impurities in the iron were discovered to be titanium, which was mined for its own value for several years.

The railroad that you have crossed periodically on this route runs from North Creek to Tahawus, and was used to ship iron and titanium south to Albany. Tahawus is a Native American word meaning "cloudsplitter"; it was the native name for Mount Marcy, on whose slopes the Tahawus name and forge rest.

At 63.7 miles after a 0.5-mile descent, cross the Boreas River. This is a fine trout-fishing river that flows south to join the Hudson not far from the town of North River. As you come down Route 28N, the terrain is rolling hills. At 65.4 miles, on your left is a sign marking the place where Teddy Roosevelt changed horses on his trip back to North Creek from Mount Marcy.

At 70.4 miles, here you will note several signs warning about a very steep descent, recommending a 20 to 25 miles per hour maximum speed. At 71.2 miles enter the hamlet of Minerva, and at 72.1 miles Murdie's General Store is on your left. This is an old-fashioned general store in the traditional sense. Here you can buy snacks, fishing tackle, car parts, swimming accessories, and most anything else you might need.

At 72.3 miles continue straight on Route 28N as the road forks to the left around the Minerva Baptist Church. The road will descend for the next 2 miles. At 74.7 miles as you round a marsh on your right, the road to Olmstedville and Pottersville splits off to the left; stay right on Route 28N. The handsome mountain on the right, with the rocky face, is Maxham Mountain.

At 76.5 miles look out across the gravel pit on the right to Gore Mountain, identified by the antenna on top and the trails cut into it. At 78.8 miles a last 0.5-mile downhill brings you into North Creek once again. At 79.4 miles cross the Hudson River one more time. The North Creek flows into the Hudson just to the left, under the railroad bridge.

At 79.7 miles turn right at the stop sign onto Main Street. At 79.9 miles return to the North Creek Deli and Marketplace.

For reference, pick up the Adirondack Map by Jimapco, New York State Atlas and Gazetteer by DeLorme, or The Adirondack Book by Elizabeth Folwell (Berkshire House Publishers).

Bill McKibben and Sue Halpern have lived near Gore Mountain for more than a decade, and have cycled extensively in and around the Adirondacks. Mitchell Hay and Barbara Lemmel live in the Town of Johnsburg, and have led bike tours through the Adirondacks and Vermont for many years. They are authors of 25 Bicycle Tours in the Adirondacks (1995, Backcountry Publications).