ICE CLIMBING

Preparing for the Adirondack
Ice Climbing Experience

by Jeff Edwards

Photo by Mark Meschinelli Climbing the 300-foot Forbidden Wall (NEI 4-), a wide expanse of slabs and overlaps at Poke-O-Moonshine, one of the major ice climbing areas in the Adirondacks.

Imagine spending a couple thousand dollars on several layers of colorful designer polyester insulation and Goretex outerwear. Throw in another couple thousand dollars worth of radically designed technical gear featuring the latest aerospace technology with 4130 CrMo steel and carbon fiber utilized at every available opportunity. Add in a pair of new age leather (yes, leather!) boots, coffee-filled vacuum flask, and a copious supply of energy bars or GU packets. Heap the whole mess in a gaudy rucksack (integrated hydration management system mandatory) and wear whatever won't fit in the bag.

Forsake all romantic attachments and familial obligations, leaving in the pre-dawn whenever possible, to drive great distances in search of frozen waterfalls and tenuously attached icicles. Hike strenuously through thigh-deep snow for an hour or more until your sophisticated layering system is saturated with perspiration and then stand at the base of an icefall belaying your partner while the early stages of hypothermia take hold. Apply your Ph.D. in psychology to coax the aforementioned partner through all manner of physical contortions, emotional trauma, and downright depravity in search of the elusive summit.

When success or failure is complete, celebrate with passion and crave the next opportunity. If any of this sounds vaguely appealing, you might be well-suited to the zany world of ice climbing.

Adirondack Ice Climbing Basics
Getting started with ice climbing is not too difficult and there is no better place in the United States than the Adirondacks to learn the craft. The Adirondack High Peaks region is blessed with an abundance of reliable roadside ice climbs. The most popular locations are concentrated in the Chapel Pond area along Route 73 south of Keene Valley or in the Cascade Lakes corridor between Keene and Lake Placid even though the entire Adirondack Park is littered with ice-covered outcrops.

Beginners typically are introduced to the sport through top-roping at a short flow of low angled ice. Modern ice climbing tools allow for reasonably fast progress and it's not unusual for novice climbers to climb steep terrain after a relatively short apprenticeship. Gaining experience in the controlled atmosphere of the top-rope setting is the key to a long and safe ice climbing career.

A nasty winter day is no time to learn the rudiments of belaying and rope management, so master those tactics in a sunny rock climbing setting or at the local indoor climbing wall. Better yet, hire a guide or take a course from an organization like the Adirondack Mountain Club and learn the necessary skills under the auspices of a professional. Ice climbing is an insanely hazardous sport with a variety of objective dangers as well as potential for fatal human error. Be safe, seek proper instruction, and always wear a helmet.

Tools of the Trade
Waterfall ice climbing as practiced in the Northeastern United States is distinct from alpine climbing or mountaineering pursued in the larger mountain ranges of the western United States or abroad. Thus, equipment suited to the particular demands of steep ice climbing has evolved with great specialization.

Rigid boots are the first necessity with two categories from which to choose. Those who anticipate restricting themselves to single-day ice cragging excursions will probably want a pair of the new generation leather boots. These pricey units possess the superior ankle flexibility required on varied terrain and unparalleled comfort with the proper fit. They can, however, become a bit chilly when movement ceases.

Those who aspire to multi-day excursions in the Adirondacks or the summit of frigid Denali will want to choose a top-quality plastic mountaineering boot with removable liner. The sacrifice in climbing performance is worth the gain in warmth. Most of these boot models are reasonably comfortable and the advantage of the liner allows for more enjoyable tent and snow cave living.

Crampons come in a dizzying array of configurations, but again future objectives are the key to selection. Choose a rigid or semi-rigid model with vertically oriented frontpoints if pursuing strictly technical ice climbing. Deciding between dual frontpoints or monopoints is strictly a matter of personal preference. Dual frontpoints allow for a more stable platform to stand upon and are less likely to shear in wet or airy ice. Monopoints are more precise and allow for a greater range of foot positions.

Some argue that monopoints are better suited to the demands of new-school mixed climbing, but there has been a recent shift back to dual points for some types of mixed routes. If you hope to someday pursue long routes on the glaciated peaks, go for semi-rigid crampons with horizontally oriented frontpoints. They are better suited to glacial snow, are generally lighter, and are less likely to ball up with sticky snow.

Take the opportunity to demo anything and everything. The feel of a certain crampon is more useful in the selection process than any written description or sales pitch. Just remember to buy boots and crampons together; they must be compatible.

Technical hand tools are task specific these days, so forget using that 70 cm mountaineering ice axe for any ice climbing in the Adirondacks. Long axes are useful in a pinch for some High Peaks excursions, but recurved clearance tools are the way to go for waterfall climbing. These beasts are typically about 50 centimeters long and ergonomically designed to swing efficiently for maximum penetration with minimal effort. Plan on spending $350-$500 for a set.

Most climbers today will select two tools with hammerheads. Skip the adze; it's dangerous and has limited application outside the big mountains. Once again, ice climbers are amazingly fussy about their tools, wildly passionate about whatever they eventually choose to drive. Each tool has a distinctive feel and swing. Try everything and select whatever feels best. One final piece of advice … avoid the closeouts, bargain basement specials, or unknown brands. Stick to products from Black Diamond, Grivel, and Charlet-Moser.

Learning Ice Climbing Skills
Pick up a copy of Don Mellor's Climbing in the Adirondacks (Adirondack Mountain Club) for locations of prominent climbs and route descriptions. Adirondack ice is incredibly reliable from year to year, the season typically lasting from December through March with diehards pushing the envelope at either end of the spectrum.

Years of top-roping experience are essential to gain the mandatory climbing skills and develop the intuition necessary to read and sense the quality of ice. There is no replacement for solid, sequential instruction and progress under the direction of a skilled partner. Climbers suffer their share of horrific accidents, but most can be avoided with technical expertise and sound judgement.

The Adirondacks offer some of the finest ice climbs in North America and there is no better place to learn the esoteric art of legitimate vandalism.

Jeff Edwards teaches English and environmental science at Northwood School in Lake Placid. He also guides rock and ice climbing for Adirondack Rock and River Guide Service in Keene.

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