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ATHLETE PROFILE: Terry LaFrance Age:
38 |
From the High Peaks to Mount Everest
By Karen Trank
It all started with a jaunt up Noonmark Mountain in the summer of 1987. Terry LaFrance came to the Adirondacks for the first time for a weekend of moderate day hiking. Larry Sullivan, his hiking partner recalls that Terry was less enthused with the panoramic view of the High Peaks they were afforded on that cloudless day, than he was with the challenge of the hike. Terry exclaimed when he reached the summit, "What a great workout. This climbing is good!" Terry is now preparing for the challenge of his life, and fittingly, the Adirondack Mountains are his training grounds. Next spring, Terry will attempt to summit the world's highest peak—Mount Everest (elevation 29,029).
Through the years, Terry found an abundance of climbing challenges in the Adirondacks, particularly in the High Peaks region, that have all served as stepping stones to his Everest adventure. He took a rock-climbing lesson from Adirondack Rock & River Guide Service in the summer of 1993, and was immediately hooked on the sport. By the fall of 1993 he became interested in mountaineering and went on a guided trip to Ecuador where he was first exposed to high altitude and glacier climbing. There he climbed four mountains above 10,000 feet, including Ecuador's 2nd highest peak, a glaciated volcano, Cotapaxi (elevation 19,347). Terry was so exhilarated by his experience in Ecuador that within six months he went to Washington State to tackle two of the highest glaciated mountains in the mainland United States, Mount Adams (elevation 12, 276) and Mount Rainer (elevation 14,410).
Despite having declared
that he would never ice climb due to its inherent danger, Terry returned
to the Adirondacks to take a vertical ice-climbing lesson. Caryn Panini,
Terry's first climbing partner laughs when she recalls that he said he
would never ice climb. "Terry never commits to anything until he
studies it thoroughly and becomes comfortable with the risks involved.
That's why he's a good partner. That's why I'm not too nervous about him
going to Everest."
Terry
knows all too well that there are inherent dangers in climbing. In 1995,
on a guided trip to Americas' tallest mountain, Mount McKinley in Alaska,
he was caught in an avalanche. Though no one was seriously injured, he
is still haunted by the episode. "What bothers me is that I did not
more vehemently oppose the decision to move that day," said Terry.
It had snowed heavily for 2 days before and they were moving down a slope
that was beneath higher terrain with ideal avalanche conditions. "I
relied on the expertise of the guides rather than my own gut feeling.
I will never do that again," he said adamantly. Terry returned to
Mt. McKinley in 1999. After reaching the summit (elevation 20,320) via
the standard route, "The West Buttress", he went back up the
mountain, via "The Cassin Ridge" (elevation 20,100), a more
technical route involving mixed vertical ice & rock climbing.
Terry's partner on "The Cassin Ridge," Ed Palen, knows that Terry will be well prepared mentally for Everest. Before each trip, Terry prepares by closely studying topographical maps, aerial photographs and climbing chronicles. "By the time Terry gets on that mountain he will know every bump of the terrain. If he is in a white out and can't see a foot in front of him—he will instinctively know to take two paces backward to find the escape gully down to safety," Ed remarked.
He also follows a vigorous training routine. During the week, he swims every morning, and weeknights he trains on a stair master wearing a weighted backpack at his local gym in Albany. On weekends, he can be found hiking and climbing in the High Peaks Region of the Adirondacks. He will try to do at least one long hike (15-20 miles) and one short hike (6-10) miles every weekend.
Terry plans to simulate as best he can the climbing conditions he will face on Everest. He is climbing the "North Ridge" route. In true "Terry LaFrance" style, it is one of the more challenging routes on the mountain. There are technical ice and rock climbing obstacles above 27,000 feet that he will have to tackle at night. To prepare, he will do backcountry climbs like the Trap Dyke, a 2000 ft mountaineering route on Mount Colden at night, when it is as cold and dark as it gets in the Adirondacks in winter.
Terry is part of a team of climbers going to Everest specifically to try to solve one of the biggest mysteries in mountaineering history—whether Andrew Irvine and George Mallory, two British explorers were the first to summit Mount Everest in 1924 when they attempted the same route that Terry will be climbing. No one knows whether the duo made it to the top. Some of Terry's teammates are going to Everest to find Irvine's body and look for possible clues.
Terry's goal however, is the summit. He will be working with the other climbers as a team, moving supplies up and establishing camps until 27,000 feet. Then, while many of the other members of the team will focus on finding Irvine, Terry will focus on his summit attempt. He will be acting independently above that point, and he will make all of his own climbing decisions. After the avalanche episode on McKinley in 1995, Terry likes it better that way.
When asked why he wants to climb Everest, Terry said that it was not always a goal. He described it as an idea that has evolved over time. "It is as much about the physical challenge as it is about the need to overcome mental obstacles like fear, self-doubt or accepting my limitations. Or, it might just be that I can right now. I'm not married, I don't have children and I have a job that will allow me to have 10 weeks off."
He says that no one person or event has inspired him. "People you meet and interact with in every stage of your life end up providing you with inspiration. Seeing the struggles that people endure in day-to-day life can be an even a greater motivator than watching a talented climber struggle up a difficult rock face." He added, "Besides, mountaineering can be fun!"
The highest point Terry has reached thus far is the summit of another Himalayan mountain Cho Oyo (elevation 26,906) in 1997. Terry's climbing partners all agree that he is strong, smart and safe. No one doubts that he will make the right decisions on Everest. Larry Sullivan, Terry's original hiking partner on Noonmark Mountain just hopes that Terry takes a minute to look at the view when he's on the top. Terry says he'll look around, "but if it's late and there's a storm coming in, it'll only be a glance."
Terry will begin his trip in mid-March 2001. If all goes well, his summit attempt on Mount Everest should come in mid-May, and he will be back in the States by the beginning of June. Look for a report on his adventure in our July issue.
Karen Trank is the owner of the Cliffhanger Café in Keene Valley.
She enjoys rock and ice climbing in the Adirondacks.
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