PADDLING

Down a Swollen Creek with a Paddle

by Bruce Lessels

Photo by Melody Thomas Rafting on the Hudson.

For most people, springtime in upstate New York means muddy boots, rainy days, slushy snow and lots of time indoors. But for whitewater kayakers, canoers and rafters, springtime means high water in the rivers and high rivers mean high adventure. Within an hour or two of the Capital District, the Adirondacks and the Catskills hold some of the premier whitewater in the Northeast. Two popular runs in the area are the Catskills' Esopus Creek located in Phoenicia and the classic Upper Hudson River that runs from Indian Lake to North Creek, traversing some of the most scenic mountains in the southern Adirondacks.

Esopus Creek
In the Catskills, the class II-III Esopus Creek holds about 3 miles of moderate rapids and generally good scenery. Water releases are normally scheduled once a month throughout the boating season. (Call 845-657-2388 for a recorded message telling you the gage level in feet for a given day.) But with the spring runoff, the level of the Esopus can vary considerably, giving it a more manic/depressive character than it displays during normal summer releases.

The source of water for the Esopus is the Schoharie Reservoir, more than 18 miles from the put-in. Water is piped this entire distance under the mountains and emerges from beneath NY Route 28 north of Phoenicia, at Loretta Charlie's Grill. The put-in is at the point where the tube, the Shandaken Tunnel, emerges from the mountain – a most improbable source for a river.

In any river, downed trees, or strainers, are a potential hazard, but the Esopus seems especially prone to them due to its sometimes steep earthen banks which erode easily. Be especially careful when the river splits around islands where the channels narrow.

For the first couple of miles class II rapids alternate with class I pools until the river approaches Route 28 in a right-hand turn just above a large culvert under the highway. From here the difficulty increases over the next mile or so with class II-II+ rapids leading to the second large island. The right channel is wider. The left channel slams into a gravel bank that seems to be shedding trees into the river, so be especially cautious if you choose this route. Be sure to stop after the channels rejoin below the island, since Railroad Rapid – the most difficult on the run – lurks just downstream.

Railroad is class III at low to medium levels (500-1,000 cubic feet per second). At higher flows most of the medium-size boulders are covered and it becomes flush with irregular waves and few eddies. The rocks are sharp at any level, and the entire rapid has been transformed by heavy machinery and floods, so the location of hazards may change frequently. In the most difficult stretch, lasting about 100 yards, the river narrows considerably and the gradient becomes more steep. Even at regular levels the infrequent eddies are small, making scouting from the boat difficult. There is an easy portage/scouting trail on river right starting at the gravel bar just above the old bridge piling that marks the lead-in to Railroad.

At the bottom of Railroad on river right is a good takeout, although the best parking spot is at the top of the rapid, but the road is not heavily trafficked, and the walk up is easy.

Hudson River Gorge
In the Adirondacks, the Hudson River Gorge is certainly one of the finest runs in the East. Utterly majestic scenery, complete isolation from the daily routine, and challenging big-water rapids all make this trip unforgettable. Once you've started the Hudson trip, it is very difficult to pull out. Pools are usually at the end of rapids, but rescues can be difficult due to the river's width and current. Rapids are usually discrete, although in several places they blend together to form extended rapids.
A trip in the Hudson Gorge usually starts on the Indian River, which joins with the Hudson. To launch on the Indian, turn off Route 28 in Indian Lake onto Chain Lakes Road. Put in just below the waterfall beneath the dam that forms Lake Abanakee.

The Indian River itself holds 1.5 miles of class III water under most conditions; a good warm-up for the more difficult water to come. When you reach the Hudson, which is two or three times as wide as the Indian, several high-volume class II and III rapids lead to Blue Ledge, which guards the entrance to more difficult rapids ahead.

From Blue Ledge to about 4 miles downriver, the Hudson is a panorama of big water. At lower levels, most rapids demand maneuvering around rocks and holes in fast, heavy water. As the water level rises, forget about the rocks.

One of the trickier rapids on the trip is Soup Strainer. It has a large boulder in the center followed by a boiling eddy. The right and right-center are strewn with large rocks and abrupt drops. The left is clearer, but turbulent. Try to stay clear of the boiling eddy in the center because if it catches you it could mash you against the upstream rock as flavoring for the soup.

In another couple of miles below, a railroad bridge crosses this part of the Hudson and the Boreas River enters from the left. On the outside of a left turn in another mile or so, extending from the right side, there is a 2- to 3-foot drop, followed by a large hole. Riding the hole here is like being a surfer on the Big Kahuna. It is about 3 miles from here to the takeout along Route 28 in North Creek.

The US Geological Survey gauge is on the left bank, 125 feet upstream from the bridge on Route 28 in North Creek, about 26 miles downstream from Indian Lake. At a reading of 5.0, many rocks start to get covered and the water takes on some power. As the gauge edges toward 6 and 7, the Hudson changes from a friendly bear to an angry grizzly that clobbers trees in his path. At these levels, some paddlers find real sport, but the less experienced find opportunities to break the world's record for holding their breath while upside down in a boat. At high levels, the onslaught of water seems to contain enough energy to create a local seismic event.

There are scheduled releases from the Indian frequently throughout the spring and less frequently through the summer and fall. These releases raise the Hudson less than half a foot but make the Indian a fluid run. Several raft companies offer trips on the Hudson Gorge throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Contact Warren County Tourism for more information: (800) 365-1050, ext. 114, or www.visitlakegeorge.com.

Bruce Lessels is the author of several books on paddling including the Classic Northeastern Whitewater Guide (Appalachian Mountain Club Press). He also runs Zoar Outdoor, an outdoor adventure center on the Deerfield River in Western Massachusetts.